The Subway (Zion National Park, Utah); Part Two
One splash led to another. Which might explain why it took us five or six hours to hike to “The Subway” in Zion National Park…
“The Subway (Zion National Park, Utah) Part One”
The actual trail kind of meandered alongside the creek, but after our steep descent in surging heat, swimming and wading through the water seemed the preferable option. We had so much fun climbing the waterfalls and falling into the pools that we didn’t realize how slowly we were progressing until Zach wondered aloud why we weren’t anywhere near anything that resembled an enclosed canyon yet.
We decided to get a little more serious and regretfully returned to the sandy trail. After a mile or two, I quietly feared we had somehow taken a wrong turn. Completely illogical; we knew the trail followed the creek. But still… We’d encountered no other hikers and our brushy path reminded me a little of deer trails I’ve mistakenly followed in Ohio.
Settling onto a large boulder we took a water break, opened our rations and discussed our options. No one wanted to turn back, but there was the suggestion to follow a side stream instead of the creek we’d been trekking alongside. Good teaching moment, I decided. I explained that it was far too easy to get completely lost (as opposed to momentarily confused) by veering off on potential shortcuts. Our choices would be limited to continuing forward or going back the way we’d come. And, we would need to start rationing our drinking water…
At that critical moment, the Boy Scouts arrived! The group of teens had rappelled and hiked down from the top of the route and their leader assured us we were only “a couple of miles” from the dead-end Subway. This would prove to be an ironic and oft-repeated statement. As we began meeting occasional hikers along the increasingly difficult trail, Hannah was told “one more mile” at least three times at quite distant intervals. The final person she queried regressed to the “couple of miles” response at which point she quit asking altogether.
Our trail that day began on red sand, dropped down steep crumbling cliffs and then flowed on through a sandy creek bed. Rocks expanded into massive boulders as we edged up the creek/trail. We climbed and pulled ourselves up waterfalls and followed Zach’s lead around and over all kinds of obstacles. Eventually we picked our way up algae-coated slate waterfalls into the carved tunnel known as The Subway. At last…
The streaming water at our feet was even colder now, untouched by sunlight as it coursed across the canyon floor. Erosion had carved random pools for us to slip in and out of as we determinedly made our way to the “Waterfall Room” that would mark the end of our trail. The merest slivers of light slid in, giving life to algae and attracting the occasional bird or dragonfly. It was unlike anywhere we’d been before. An eerie sculpted passage that nudged all our senses into lively perceptions.
But our time was short… Our pact was to hike out as fast as safely possible, knowing that a canyon sunset is something best viewed from the rim.
I gained even more respect for my kids that day as we worked our way back. Zach was a selfless leader, and I played sheep dog at the rear. It was the hardest, best time we’ve had in a while. And, at the end of it all… After that brutal climb back up that 400 feet of heat-radiating red rock… We did it in two hours and fifteen minutes, with an hour to spare.
“The Subway (Zion National Park, Utah) Part One”
More on Utah:
“Road to Zion (National Park, Utah)”
“Into ‘The Narrows’ (Zion National Park, Utah)”
“The Subway (Zion National Park, Utah) Part One”
“The Subway (Zion National Park, Utah) Part Two”
“Court of the Patriarchs and The Emerald Pools of Zion (National Park, Utah)”
“Hanging Gardens (Zion National Park, Utah)”
“Hoodoo Heaven” (Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah)
“Smokey the Bear and Tibetan Monks? I Must be in Boulder (Utah)… ”
“Dogs and Cars -but not Cows…” (Boulder, Utah)
“The Cows… Part One (Boulder, Utah)”
“The Cows… Part Two (Boulder, Utah)”
“Pictographs at Lower Calf Creek Falls (Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah)”
“The Goosenecks at Capitol Reef National Park (Utah)”
“Hiking ‘Smart’ in Grand Wash (Capitol Reef National Park, Utah)”
“The Lodge at Red River Ranch (Teasdale, Utah)”
“Of Pictographs and Petroglyphs…”
“A Reef in the Desert (Capitol Reef National Park)”
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Fabulous photos that make me envious. How come you were afraid of running out of water when you had water all about you?
Great Adventure of hiking to Zion National Park in Utah, Heatherdugan. How could you take such fabulous photos on your hiking tour? Did you feel your hands or legs shaking while taking photos?
A five hour hike! \You must be good at that sort of thing, Heather.
Suzanne,
I feel like my photos don’t even do it justice! It was gorgeous!
Regarding the water… while it was clear, it was not designated as “drinkable”. In a pinch, we’d have done so anyway and just dealt with the tummy problems later. The decision point came as we left the creek to climb back up the last mile or so in 100 + degrees Fahrenheit heat. We had enough for a couple of sips on the way, so we went for it with our remaining water.
In responding to a comment on the last post (Part One), I mentioned a stranded group we encountered. Other members of their hiking party left them with a water purifier. -When you need more water than you can comfortably carry or encounter an unexpected delay, that sounds like a smart “back-up” to carry in your backpack!
Travel Feeder,
I had to be a bit strategic with my photography. Zach carried my camera in a dry bag within his backpack for most of the hike, and I picked a few key spots for photos (in conjunction with swimming or a water break). There were a LOT of spectacular shots I had to just relegate to memory instead of memory card. I carried the dry bag through the Subway itself, knowing I’d need quick access to it there.
And yes, it was a pretty physical hike, but I was determined to take some of the beauty home with us, so I just anchored my elbows and snapped away!
Jean-Luc,
The whole adventure took a little over eight hours (plus our “warm-up” hike at the wrong trailhead!)… -Don’t know if that means we’re good at it or that we just love being out there!
jeesh,heather wish i was there,,very beautiful,,t
Thanks Todd,
Truly a journey worth taking…!!
I would rather get lost, if it’s such a beautiful place like Zion National Park!
I always got lost on my trips, But I think they were very valuable venturesome experiences.
iWalk,
There is something wonderful in wandering, isn’t there (as long as my kids are safe!!)?
Super photo really captures Zion and its fantastic colors.
Thanks Mark. I spotted your post on Bryce this morning. That whole area is pretty phenomenal!